Vol. 4   The Alps                                                                                       25 April 2007

Finding shelter on the road

Okay, I hear your comments already.  Find a room?  Jeff, you mean you're not camping and sleeping in a tent?  You're turning into a wuss!  Yeah right, so sue me.  Even with this unbelievable summer-like weather, it is still down around freezing each night here in the mountains.  Besides, if you know where to look, the rooms are downright reasonable.  Here is my secret to traveling cheaply in Europe.  It has worked for years and is practically foolproof.  (Lean over close to the monitor so I don't have to type it too loudly)  Don't ever stay in a place with an "otel" in the word, anywhere.  Hotel, Motel, run away from them unless you have more money than you know what to do with.  Here are good words to look for:  Zimmer or Zimmer Frei (German), Camara (Italian), Sobe (Slovenian), or Pension (works everywhere).  You won't find a B&B in central Europe, but the equivalent is the Zimmer Frei sign in someone's window.  It literally means, Room Free.  No, no, not cost free, but available.  Unlike America where a B&B is this high dollar, Victorian decorated frou-frou room with poster beds and a poodle (and a price that makes it an Anniversary or Special weekend get-away with the wife-type place), European zimmer frei's are just the opposite.  A room in someone's home, sometime with bath ensuite, but sometimes with the WC down the hall.  Very basic, very no-frills.  "Mit fruhstuck" means they come with a basic continental breakfast of rolls, cheese, cold meats, musli and yoghurt.  Most are around 25-30 Euros, if they aren't on the main road thru town.  In Austria the homes with rooms have a small sign on the side with a single bed or a double bed pictured, and a green square if available, a red square if not.  I usually find a small town, turn off the main highway, find a back street, and start looking for the zimmer frei sign.  This might not work in the high season, but right now it is working like a charm and it is helping keep my daily expenses to around 60 Euro.  Heck, a tank of gas is between 22 and 30 Euros, so a cheap room is essential.  That's it.  Lesson over.  Oh, the picture on the right is the view from my room in Pettneu a. Arlberg.  It was Haus Morgensonne, owned by the Familie Traxl.  The view was spectacular.

Musings while riding over the Alps and watching all the bright colored zip'n splats scream by

 

As crotch rocket after crotch rocket screams by, with engines wailing and tires melting, I realize how much I love my GS.  Rock solid, dependable, quick when needed but not too fast, good-looking but not too sexy, in other words, a loving and reliable partner.  In the last three years she has done yeoman's work while never complaining, and has literally gotten me to where I am in life.  She is NOT a sexy, flaming red Ducati, Bimota, or MV Augusta.  You see, those bikes are too fast, too sexy, too temperamental, too easy to get into trouble on, and very unforgiving.  They are not there for the long haul.  They are only there as long as you are willing to spend a lot of money and time on them.   Hmmm.  Sounds kind of like a high maintenance woman too.   My GS is the opposite of that in every way.  She isn't too sexy, although I think she's beautiful.  She isn't too fast, but will go anywhere.  Never leaves me stranded, and only needs the most basic maintenance and attention.  She is patient and understanding, and won't normally let me get myself into trouble.  Yes, I am a happy camper with my GS.  Every bike should be so easy to get along with.  And I know she'll get me home.

 

 

The Dolimites

 

Departing Pettnau a Arlberg early Saturday morning, I was wearing everything.  It was cold.  But as soon as I got on the road, I warmed right up.  Hmmm.  Where to go?  Since I was in the corner where Switzerland, Austria, Germany and Liechtenstein all come together, I decide to turn back southwest and to take in the Ofen Pass.  Teresa and I had ridden back that way on our return from Croatia in 2001.  Why not, it was only an hour's detour.  Heck I spent almost half that time with the Border Police waiting to get into Switzerland. (I think they were concerned by all the open visas in my Passport).  Anyway it was a nice detour which brought me back into northern Italy and straight across to Bolzano, the gateway to the Dolimites.  At one point, once I got out of the mountains and back into civilization, the traffic on the road into Merano was killing me (it was a Saturday), so I dropped off the paved road and rode along a dirt road in the valley by the river.  Pretty soon I found myself in a vineyard, with a castle overlooking it.  It was a great place to stop for lunch. (cue the Italian music)

Once past Bolzano I simply found a tiny road and headed up into the mountains.  I actually didn't know where I was or the road I was on, but I do know it had fifteen, count 'em, fifteen turns, each at least 180 degrees, back to back.  I swear a couple of the turns were so sharp I saw my own tail-light as I went around it.  I started to get a crick in my neck from swiveling my head to see up the mountain to tell if a car was coming before I made the turn because most of the turns were so sharp that only one vehicle could get around it at a time.  Boy the clutch got a great workout.

Found a great pension in Canazei for the night.  Went to a supermarket and bought food for dinner and the road, then wandered around town.  I don't know how to describe the following, so I'll just let the pictures do the talking.

This place was intensely decorated.  Every square foot of the house was either painted, or sculpted, or both.  Even the undersides of the roof, and under the windows was decorated.  I can't imagine the years it took to do that level of detail, or the amount of time it takes for upkeep.  It was stunning though.

I found these sculptures in front of someone's home.  They were around.  These two were almost 100% copper sheets, individual cut and sculpted.  Whomever was the artist, was a genius.  Both of these finds just made me say, wow.