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Riding Eastward:
A Motorcyclist's Journey Around the World
 
 
 
          From Hadrian's Wall                                                                  to the Great Wall 

Vol. 2   England:  Round and round and round she goes.......                  19 April 2007

Dear Jeff,

I finally have a day all to myself, and internet access courtesy of Bill and Susy here in Germany.  I am in heaven.  Good strong coffee, a sweet from the local bakery, laundry in the sun drying, and a chance to upload some pictures.  What more could you ask for?  This first week on the road has been a good shake-down of all the new gear, and a nice re-acquaintance with riding in Europe.  Things are going so well I swear I've been smiling so much my face is sore.  Who would have thought that I'd be riding in 70 to 80F temps and beautiful sunshine in April?  Unbelievable.
 
For the last week, I've been trying to sort out in my head just how to keep this journal, and how to present the feelings I'm experiencing on this trip.  I don't want to just spew facts, and I can't post all the pictures, so I'm simply going to try to give small snippets of my journal to capture the moments on the road.  It won't be in chronological order, and it might not even be about the riding.  Travel is so much more than just the miles, it is also the weather, the geography, the people, the food, the history and the cultural differences that seem to change almost every day.  My handwritten journal records everything, but these updates will just be a tiny window into the many facets of this journey.  I hope you like them.
 
Rapeseed field in southern UK 
On the road, in Oberjesingen, near the Black Forest,
 
 
 
 
Jeff Munn
Petersburg, Virginia
Leaping the big Pond
 
The actual process of getting the bike here was much easier than I had ever imagined.  Other than the aggravation of having to wash the GS so it would clear Customs, and then getting it covered with the winter road/salt slush on the way to Toronto. (those of you who know me know that I only wash it when I ride in the rain because if you ride it everyday, what is the point of trying to keep it polished?) 
 
Final prep at the freight terminal in Toronto
The shipping company had everything done ahead of time, provided me with the lists of what I had to present at both airports, and made it a very pleasant experience. Other than disconnecting the battery and taping the terminals, the drop-off didn't take 20 minutes.  The arrival was a bit more complicated because I had to find a Customs agent first, but after they decided that I didn't need a Carnet du Passage, and I gave them their processing/handling and Customs fees, we were good to go. 
 
 
 
All told, the shipment of the bike from Toronto to Manchester cost about $1500. 
Renewing old friendships
 
First, I have to say this and then I'll be done with it.  As Dave would say, I was absolutely "gob-smacked" by the cost of living in the UK.  My first fill up outside the airport cost $47 US for a little over 5 gallons. (insert mental picture of Munch's "Scream" here) To everyone in the USA, you should be thanking your lucky stars that you don't have to pay almost $8 a gallon for gas.  Okay, vent over.  Now back to our regular programming....
 
Maggie and her girlsFar beyond just meeting good friends here (Dave and Maggie), the experience of England was overwhelming.  I didn't see any of the major tourist areas, and stayed as far away from the major cities as I could.  Instead, I found far more joy in the two days of back country riding that Dave led me on.  Meandering over the Pennines and throughout the rural countryside around Lincoln, I felt as if I had fallen into a chapter of "All Creatures Great and Small".
 
In every direction, with the unnaturally warm weather, the earth was awakening.  It seemed to be stretching it arms out, shaking off a long winter slumber, and shouting to the glory of spring.  The early work of the farmers had half of eastern England covered with a tapestry of bright yellow.  Miles and miles of farmland were dedicated to rapeseed and the bright yellow flowers on the plant were stunning.  Waist high and with the flowers covering over half the stalk, the rapeseed fields were as pure a condensed color as imaginable. 
 
Local gardens during the ride
Competing with that, wildflowers were blooming along the hedgerows that lined the tiny, curving country roads, while rock walls built before the USA was founded divided fields of new green grass.  In the towns it was as if each home was in competition with the next to produce the most perfect combination of color and design in their gardens.
 
Flowers in Lincoln
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The animals and birds were out too.  Riding over the Snake Pass in the Pennines, we found sheep grazing along the road.  Not to be out done, we also had to stop for a "rare" mountain duck and her duckling to cross the road.  What they were doing at that altitude I'll never know...   Occasionally we'd see Ringed Neck pheasants the size of peacocks feeding just yards from the shoulder of the road.  The fields of new, green grass were soft and warm for the spring lambs frolicking about.  Everywhere bees were busy, doing what bees do, and pollinating the millions of flowers on fruit trees and in the fields and gardens.  The warm weather had a similar affect on the human population too.  In the little villages and in the parks, young ladies were out in their bright colored summer outfits, and the young men were buzzing around them like those bees to a flower, seemingly hoping to do some pollinating of their own.  Ah, the weather and the time of year was spectacular.
 
Wedding bells in Lincoln
Traditional English breakfast at a B&BIn my short 48 hours in England, I wanted to overwhelm myself with all things British and Dave ensured that included food and drink.  Maggie prepared an incredible roast beef and Yorkshire pudding dinner my first night there, and then I had the traditional fish and chips for dinner the next.  While walking around Lincoln and enjoying the cathedral, we popped into a bakery for meat pies and a scone.  My final meal was a traditional English breakfast of sausage, bacon, egg, mushrooms, tomatoes, baked beans, and toast.  Hmmmm.  As for the drink, have you ever seen someone actually pull a pint of ale?  I did my best to keep the pubs in business too.  If you really want to know, the next time you see me ask about what it feels like to indulge in a bit too much of the Bishop's Finger.....    and I quote from the label,
 
"At 5.4%, it's near the knuckle!"
 
As for "Round and round and round she goes...." that would be for the roundabouts that seem to be at every intersection in England.  At first, when combined with the discomforting feeling of being on the wrong side of the road, they are intimidating.  But soon you get use to the unique flow of traffic around them and you realize they are a great idea.  With every roundabout they eliminate the need for a traffic light.  What a great concept.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Finally, to give me a special treat, Dave showed me how to ride from New York to Boston in 15 minutes.  He offered to take me to California too, but that was over an hour away so I had to decline.  There were just too many other things to see and not enough time.  Funny how it always seems to be that way.
 
 
Next update:  Volume 3:  Crossing France and into Germany
 
Having spent three lovely days in the UK getting over jet-lag, visiting old friends, and getting the bike sorted out, I then jumped on the train and took the Channel Tunnel to France.  For those Francophiles, I'm sorry but I was heading for Germany and simply blasted through without lingering.  It was beautiful, but transitory, so I won't have much about it.  Germany was my goal and I had many friends waiting, so blast I did, since Germany is a second home to me.
 
For those who are just joining the trip, you can find the previous Volumes on the web at the following links:
 
 
I hope you are enjoying them.
 
Cheers,
Jeff